Here will look at the most effective oils for hair care — both essential oils (like Lavender and Rosemary) and carrier oils (like Evening Primrose and Jojoba) — with details about each so you can create a specific formula to suit your personal hair type. The recipes are easy to make, and you can even just add a few of the oils to conditioners or shampoos you may already be using. And though easy to make, these can be profoundly effective herbal treatment formulas for stimulating hair growth, both for those with healthy hair and those experiencing some hair loss.

The essential oils used for healthy hair and hair growth fall into four main categories relating to how they affect they affect the dermis if the scalp and the hair follicles. These are: Stimulating, nutritive, balancing, and antibacterial/immune enhancing. Stimulating oils often contain ketones — natural chemical ’signalers’ that step up cellular metabolism. (Certain oils containing ketones have important safety guidelines, which we’ll cover with each oil’s description) Nutritive oils include vitamins, growth co-factors and/or fatty acids necessary for healthy growth. Balancing essential oils balance sebum (natural skin oil) and hormones on the cellular level. They can also reduce inflammation and be cooling to follicles (overheated follicles are thought to be the cause of some hair loss). Antibacterial and immune enhancing oils can help a variety of conditions where infections or auto-immune disease may be the source of hair loss or diminished hair growth.

To make a basic scalp treatment blend, the essential oils are based in carrier oils–these are long-chain ‘fixed’ oils, in the families of cooking oils we’re familiar with. The term ‘carrier oil’ is used as these oils ‘carry’ the essential oils into the skin and scalp. The also provide nutritive co-factors, antioxidants and essential fatty acids that are very important for healthy hair. The essential oils are added to the carriers (one or more carrier can be blended together to make the formula’s ‘base’) at what seems to be very low dilutions–on the order of 1% each essential oil in the overall formula. It is really best not to use higher amounts of most of the essential oils (a couple may be increased, and we’ll note these specifically). Essential oils are VERY concentrated plant extracts, and many of their therapeutic actions result from signaling cells what to do. Like sending a text message, it only needs to happen once to get the point across–repeating the message over and over doesn’t help and can be irritating. This really is like how certain essential oils function, so remember, in most cases with pure essential oils: less is more!

On to the specific essential oils–The stimulating oils signal cellular regeneration. They tell follicles to rev-up their engines and grow more hair! These are the oils that work mostly in that ’signaling’ way. And at the same time, these are the oils that carry the most cautions with them. Some are very safe (Rosemary), and some should be carefully considered before using (Sage oil, which we’ll get to). Rosemary is the most popular of the stimulating oils, having been used in hair care remedies for centuries. There are three types of Rosemary commonly available, and it is the Verbenone type that is used for skin and hair care. While somewhat more costly than the others, it is the Verbenone within this type that signals cellular regeneration. Some therapists note that Rosemary should be avoided during pregnancy by young children (due to its ketone content) and by those with epilepsy (due to its stimulating action).

Sage essential oil, like Rosemary, is also highly regarded for hair care and stimulating hair growth. It is considered the most potent of the regenerative oils, though also the one with the most cautions. Like Rosemary, it should be avoided if pregnant, by children, and by those with epilepsy. Some therapists think it should be just generally avoided by the lay-practitioner, while others believe it is safe at therapeutic dilutions. Sage does have a long history in hair care, mostly as a tea from the leaves of common Sage. The essential oil is relatively new on the scene, and needs to be used in an entirely different manner than the hair-wash tea. The oil should only be used in very low concentrations in a carrier oil–at 1% or less. Kurt Schnaubelt in Advanced Aromatherapy includes it in a recipe for skin regeneration at .25%. This is only 2 drops per ounce of carrier oil!

Nutritive essential oils supply vitamins and vitamin-like molecules which enhance cell functions, including hair growth. Vitamin A co-factors have been found particularly beneficial to the follicles. The most nutritive essential oils supplying these co-factors are Sea Buckthorn Berry and Helio-Carrot (or Carrot Root). Both these essential oils are actually made by a high-tech process called carbon-dioxide extraction, at a lower temperature than the steam distillation used for most essential oils. This process preserves the nutrients in the oils, and brings a broader spectrum of the therapeutic plant molecules into the oil. Both these oils should be used at about 1% of the overall blend.

Next, the balancing essential oils — balancing oils should make up a part of everyone’s blend. Lavender oil is sort of the king of therapeutic essential oils, with an amazing array of effects. Lavender is thought to be cooling, soothing, anti-inflammatory and helps the skin heal. If one needs to balance the scalp’s natural oils, Green Myrtle is an excellent choice, also with antibacterial and regenerative properties. Myrtle can reduce excessive oil production (which has been implicated in hair loss and slow hair growth) and can help a flaky, itchy scalp. For women, Clary Sage can be especially balancing, particularly where regular hormone production is the source of hair loss or slow hair growth. Proper estrogen metabolism on the cellular level is critical for beautiful hair, and older women in particular may really benefit from .5% Clary Sage included in their personal recipes.

Some hair loss is directly related to mild-to-severe scalp infections, and even auto-immune conditions where the body seems to reject its own hair follicles and suppress growth. This auto-immune condition is called alopecia areata, and has been successfully treated with essential oils of Rosemary, Lavender, Cedarwood and Thyme, each at .5% concentrations based in Jojoba and Grapeseed oils. These oils are all antiseptic and stimulating, and can be added to other formulas. Also, Tea Tree essential oil is popular in hair care products, and may be helpful where an itchy scalp indicates a mild skin infection, which in turn suppresses optimal hair growth.

Once the essential oils are selected, they are mixed into a base of carrier oils. The carrier oils are so-called as they help the scalp properly absorb the essential oils. They also provide therapeutic and nutritive properties themselves, so be sure to choose them carefully. Jojoba oil is the all-star of hair care, and has long been used for enhancing luster and softness. Jojoba will work for any skin/scalp type by itself as the base if one is on a limited budget. For more therapeutic activity, Evening Primrose oil is an excellent choice. It has an exceptionally high percentage of essential fatty acids, which both reduce cellular inflammation and provide nutrients for hair growth. It seems to sooth all kinds of irritated scalp conditions, and is recommended in any formula treating hair loss — can be used at 25-100% of the base. Rosehip seed is highly regenerative, shown to help reduce the appearance of aging. Rosehip should have a profound impact where hair growth is slow or hair is being lost, as similar pharmaceutical preparations have had significant effects — also highly recommended in cases of hair loss, can be used at up to 50% of the base. Coconut is great to blend with either or both of these oils, as it is cooling, nutritive and light textured. You can use fractionated coconut (easily poured at room temperature) or just warm virgin coconut until it’s pourable and mix with other carriers. Sesame is another wonderful choice for those with ‘hot heads’ — really where stress may be leading to hair loss or limited growth.

To make and use your personal hair growth formula, select a group of essential oils, and choose the base oils you’d like to use. (It is very strongly recommended you get your oils from a reliable, high-quality source, as oils can be mis-labeled or adulterated — having other products added or substituted for the real thing — when the price is to good to be true.) Add the essential oils at the recommended concentrations (1% is 8 drops of essential oil per ounce of your total mixture). DON’T overdo it, as too much essential oil can possibly irritate the scalp; smaller amounts tend to have the most beneficial effects, and keep the cost of your blend very reasonable. The final blend can be massaged into the scalp at any time of day, and it may be best to start with a scalp that’s just been washed and is warm (the pores are open) and wrap the head with a warm moist towel for 20 minutes after application to increase absorption. If using before bed, be sure to cover your pillow as to not leave oil stains — leaving the formula on overnight may be the best way to receive the most therapeutic penetration of all the healing oils.

So there you have a beginner’s guide to making a hair-growth stimulating, hair loss preventing aromatherapy formula. With the many resources available on the internet, you can further investigate each oil to determine its value for your personal condition. With careful selection and dedicated use, you’re almost certain to see a dramatic change in the health and growth of your hair.